Santorini 2

Yesterday we took a four hour tour with a local guide. He's probably in his 40s but having lived on this mountain his whole life, he could probably run up to the top in 20 minutes. He recognized that we're not quite as young or agile as he is and kept telling us to take our time as he barreled ahead. He also figured we wanted a group picture at every stop and took Joyce's phone so he could take multiple pictures of us. Since it was windy all the time, I doubt we'll be printing them for our photo albums.

We went to Oia first to take pictures of the famous blue domes. They're on private property so you can't get next to them. There are blue domes all over the island but these are the famous ones because of the view of the ocean. As with all pathways here, there are multiple steps and tight places to navigate. We just missed multiple tour groups or we would never have gotten this picture that we really don't want:

In Oia

It is obvious our guide Nikos does not care for the cruise ships. He said they've had 12 at one time and the only control they have is to start some tours at different ends of the island. He said the passengers are there only 6 or 7 hours and they buy very little because their tour guides rush them from site to site. He said this as he rushed us from site to site. I asked him where the Chinese weddings are held and he said the wedding party wanders around the blue domes area trying to find a site for the ceremony. He does not approve.

From there we went to Akrotiri, the excavation site that provided the pottery and other items in the museum we saw in Fira. Nikos said when the residents heard about the wall paintings, they all rushed to the Fira museum to see them.  The excavation site is huge and knowing it represents only 3% of the total site makes it more impressive. 

These are the only pottery pieces on display. 

From there we went to the red beach which is red from volcanic eruptions. There is a steep path to get to the perfect viewing area. Nikos told us it was an easy walk. It's not. But soooo

worth it for this lovely picture:

At some point Nikos pulled over to show us a grape plant. The grape plants have been there over 300 years. They were not affected by the 

blight  which wiped out a lot of Europe's vineyards. The special growing technique involves training the canes of the vine in the shape of a basket around the plant which protects it from wind, sun and volcanic sand. Nikos said after the basket is formed, they do nothing until harvest although they might water them in August. Nearby where we were, there are horses you can ride. Nikos said Italians ride them and get off where they think no one will see them and try to take part of a plant to take back to Italy. But there's someone sitting high above the field who yells at them. He said if they would just ask, someone would give them a piece. 

We also visited a traditional town to see a cave house which someone has opened to the public. It's not deep enough to maintain a constant temperature; it's comfortable in the summer but very hot in the winter. We did see people living their normal lives, as though the island isn't covered in tourists. Tour buses are allowed to drive through the town but not park.  

We told Nikos we were finished with walking but he had to drive us to the highest point on the island. The road was scary but once at the top, we could see the whole island.

We ate dinner at the same restaurant two nights in a row. It was the only one recommended by our rental agent. It's huge and packed by 8:00.

Everywhere we've had dinner in Greece, we are given a shot of some liqueur after dinner.  At this restaurant it was prickly pear one night and Vin santo the next. We'd had vin santo that was close to the Italian version but this one was different, like port mixed with the wine. 

The tomatoes, especially cherry tomatoes, are especially good here. Nikos said it's because they're grown in volcanic ash.  They don't irrigate but the sea mist and humidity keep the plants moist. Their main crops are fava, tomatoes and grapes.

We are currently on the same ferry we took to Santorini. We'll be getting off at Paros where our VRBO host will pick us up. The sea was choppy from Santorini to the first stop, Io, making walking difficult. But it's calmed down now. We continue to enjoy traveling by ferry. No one makes you climb mountains or pose for pictures.